Brow Lamination Step-by-Step: What Happens During Your Appointment

Brow lamination uses a three-step chemical process to break and reform the disulphide bonds in your brow hairs, allowing them to be repositioned. The full appointment runs 45–60 minutes, including consultation and aftercare briefing.

Step one: Cleanse and lift solution. Your therapist cleanses brows with micellar water to remove oils, then applies a lifting cream (usually containing thioglycolic acid at 6–8% concentration). Brow hairs are brushed upward and adhered to a silicone shield. This solution processes for 5–8 minutes depending on your hair texture—coarse, wiry brows need the full eight; fine, soft hairs only five. Over-processing causes breakage; under-processing means the result drops within a week.

Step two: Setting solution. The lift cream is removed with damp cotton pads, and a neutralising solution (often sodium bromate) is applied for 5–8 minutes. This reforms the disulphide bonds in their new position, locking the lifted shape. Your therapist may tint at this stage if you've booked a combo service—tint processes simultaneously during the final 5 minutes.

Step three: Nourish and style. A keratin serum or conditioning oil is massaged through to restore moisture, then brows are brushed into your desired shape and trimmed if needed. Excess length (anything beyond 8–10mm) is snipped to prevent a spidery look.

Aftercare is non-negotiable for longevity. Keep brows completely dry for 24 hours—no shower steam, sweat, or face washing. Avoid retinol, AHAs, and exfoliants on the brow area for 48 hours; these acids can prematurely fade the treatment. Apply a nourishing brow oil (castor or argan) nightly for the first week.

Results last 6–8 weeks, though you'll notice gradual relaxation from week five as new growth comes through. Lamination works best on brows with at least 60% density; sparse brows won't have enough hair to create the fluffy effect. If you have gaps, ask about a tint or microblading consultation instead.

Contraindications: skip this treatment if you're pregnant, have eczema or psoriasis on the brow area, or have had brow tattooing in the past four weeks (the chemicals can cause pigment migration). Always disclose recent cosmetic procedures during your consultation.